Koki Sekizawa

Since I started the journal I have been re-discovering Revés through the eyes of people I have met, friends and our customers. I have been extremely lucky to cross paths with people who remind me to go back to the beginning, when it’s just you and your craft, your ideas. Moments when you lose yourself in the process of creating something new. That’s what Koki made me feel when talking with him about his art: an immense feeling of wanting to create, to be more alert to details we find everyday that make life more meaningful. 

I stumbled across his work by chance. Catherine, a photographer I worked with, was traveling to Japan and took the opportunity to shoot some photos at his studio in Mount Nasu. When she shared the images I was really struck by Koki's work and the setting. This beautiful atelier with a big table and shelves filled with colorful fabrics, surrounded by his creations; a universe of his own. 

Koki Sekizawa was born in Tokyo. He graduated from in Central Saint Martins, where he studied fashion design. After years of working in Amami Island with a very talented craftsman dyeing and weaving silk, he found a house in Nasu surrounded by nature, and made the decision to move here during the pandemic. A quiet place where he could immerse himself in his craft. Ever since, Koki has been creating beautiful pieces made out of vintage silk kimonos, which he finds in markets (something I was surprised to learn is very common Japan). He takes these pieces and transforms them into works of art, sometimes more abstract  and other times in the shape of utilitarian pieces like curtains or lamps shades, but always guided by intuition; it feels like his pieces and light go hand in hand — they come alive whenever you place them against the sun. 

Koki is wearing 002 model in black / Photos by Catherine Abert

What was your upbringing like in Japan? Did you grow up close to nature? 

I grew up in the west side of Tokyo so it wasn’t very close to nature however there was a big Buddhist temple nearby and it was surrounded by a lot of trees and rivers and I always liked to be there as a kid. 

Koki’s atelier.

Before starting your studies in the UK, was there a definitive moment (a core memory) that guided you towards fashion/textile? 

I always had a huge interest in fashion but more in a sense how individuals express themselves. I was especially inspired by how musicians dressed to express themselves and their style always gave me a sense of freedom. Like all the teenagers would do I made my own clothes by altering second hand clothing to make it my own. 

What were your views on fashion industry before enrolling in CSM? How did it changed in the years that followed?

Before studying at CSM, I wasn’t aware of how designers are representing their identities and culture, but studying fashion design with my peers from many different nationals and backgrounds, I learned to see designs are reflecting their cultural background a lot and it made me aware about how my background is influencing my creativity.

What are your thoughts on sustainability and how do you carry this through your work and your life?

I think it’s very important for every creators to be aware about the materials they are using for their works. How the materials are made and sourced and how they are impacting our society and environment etc. I work with the mainly second hand vintage textile because they are so beautiful and also there are too many of them left and sometimes they just throw them away and I couldn’t let beautiful textile to be treated like that.

I know one type of the garment you use in creating your pieces is vintage kimonos you find around Japan. Is there any other place you like look for materials? And, are you drawn to specific fibers?

I am currently in love with using vintage silk fabric for my work. I’m really drawn to the rich texture of the silk fabric. But I’m totally up for looking for a unique textile from all over the world. I don’t really have a specific places I would look for in my mind but whenever I go traveling I like to check vintage textile at markets or antique shops.

Do you have a memorable textile find that you have incorporated into your designs?

When I found the boro fabric. I fell in love with its visual aesthetic and how people back in the days cherished every pieces of fabric and mended as long as possible. That idea of using the fabric without any waste encourage me and I keep scraps of fabric and for other projects.

During the pandemic, when you moved to the mountains in Nasu, how was the experience of immersing yourself in your work? Durante la pandemia, cuando te mudaste a las montañas en Nasu, ¿cómo fue la experiencia de sumergirte en tu trabajo?

Moving to the mountains of Nasu gave me sense of security. It is because I spent a lot of my childhood and I only have a good memories with the area. That secure feeling helps me to be vulnerable and be honest to my own emotions which is a hard thing for me to do sometimes.

What is setting your atelier like?I feel like a huge part of creating is being in a space that allows creativity to flow.

My atelier is located in the mountain and forest. So I get to see the trees from my window and seeing how the trees change its look and colour throughout the seasons. Also I found that the light has different colours each season and that made my sensibility to colours even sharper than before.

During the pandemic, do you think being surrounded by nature had any influence on your process?

Absolutely. I was living in Amami Oshima island when pandemic hit and I could still walk by the beach and that gave me calmness and it really made me think deep about what I really wanted to do with my life and what I want to make. Nature allowed me to be calm and forget about all the pretentiousness and it helped to be focus on what I really want to do.

How has your lifestyle changed from living in the city? Do you see yourself moving back?

I like the contrast of the life both in the city and countryside. I like to be close to nature when work on my art. I need a quiet environment where I can feel relax 100% to be sensitive and vulnerable. There is always something happening in the city and I like the encountering to new people which gives joy to your life. I will always like this buzz and i go to Tokyo very often from the mountain. I would never choose one or the other and I like to choose both option.

Do you have any ritual/routine you follow in the mornings before you start working?

I tend to spend my morning very slow and usually start with drinking coffee with my favorite ceramic cups on the sofa and just do nothing. Being in the quiet nature makes you behave in this way naturally I think. This ritual sets the mood and it helps me to be more intuitive when it comes to making art.